Art Blog

Our Group in China

It seems like ages ago, but actually less than a month ago I landed in Shanghai, one day before our painting group arrived and 23 years since my last visit to China.  Arriving by plane to the modern Pudong International Airport was a stark contrast to arriving in Guangzhou by train  22 years ago as a wide eyed backpacker.  Returning this time with considerably more experienced as a seasoned traveling … I’m returning with great expectations from the country that planted the travel bug deep into my blood stream all those years ago.

Shanghai has, by and large, shot up only in the last 28 years - an impressive collection of modern architecture with vast quantities of residential buildings along side ultra nouveau office towers revealing only the occasional glimpse of what once occupied its former footprint.  The area of Shanghai representing China’s persona to the world most is the ultra modern development zone of Pudong and future location for the World Expo 2010.  Best viewed along the famous river front walk known as the Bund all lit up like a bad Vegas nightmare -  Pudong and the Bund epitomizes the irony that is China.  One modern building actually has a crown on it’s top as if to proclaim Shanghai as the new Jewel of the East.  It is quite evident this country has plenty of money to present itself as an economic giant to the rest of the world with an abundance of capital including 1.6 trillion dollars in US Bonds represent only a portion of China’s foreign investments. To travel beyond this wall of skyscrapers …. the contradiction and reality is apparent.  The irony presented itself on our painting excursion to the  Zhujiajiao (a water village of  bridging the Cao Gang River just outside Shanghai) where we spend a wonderful day painting a traditional village and illustrating a life style quickly disappearing from China’s landscape.

From Shanghai our painting group of 18 embarked on an overnight train to Haungshan followed by a magnificent cable car ride up the Yellow Mountain.   Our destination for the next couple of nights is the hilltop hotel ( approrietly named West Sea for the sea of clouds we find ourselves floating)  nestled amongst giant granite mastiffs.  Absolute bliss without the traffic of the cities and above all the smog. Painting 1800 meters above sea level so close to the heavens is a truly spiritual experience …even if the bloody paint won’t dry in all the mist.   Our departure is marked with a note of sadness as we descend our nobel perch. You understand better after viewing the mode of transportation arranged for our gracious Sandra Pearson in the photo album.  Our sadness was soon overshadowed by the charm of our next painting inspiration found in the small village of Hongcun (location for the famous film Crouching Tiger Hidden Dragon).  

The next severals days were spent visiting other rural villages in the county of Yi and Wuyuan; none so memerable as Hongcun and none quite so disturbing as the village of Li-Ken.  As our bus navigates the narrow winding road leading to this recently “available” traditional water village I wonder how it is possible for two vehicles to pass on this impossibly narrow road … as I learn here in China, anything is possible.  I am reminded with 1.3 billion people nothing is beyond imagination; however, is it possible though that half of the population of China has just desended on this small rural village?  Chinese tourists by the droves … oh and one bus load of westerners …. cameras loaded… UNLEASH the tourists!  Tragically we are part of this madness that has just descended on this unsuspecting town … or is it a calculate strategy? We get out of Dodge as fast as we can and stop at the next town to paint in the real China - Beautiful!

Before long we are heading back east to the lake shore city of Hangzhou where we saw a spectacular theatrical light show created by director Zhang Yi Mou of Olympics fame “impressions of West lake”. With a few days to unwind and relax in this quiet town of six million we finally have the opportunity and energy to find out about the Chinese night life.  Of course China does not disapoint with more of the bizarre - Young chinese seem to party like frat boys on ecstasy.  Young people drinking shooters from soup bowls, table full of beer … Oh you can order hard liqueur if you like but you better be ready to drink an entire bottle.  Back at the Hotel I see a Patron being dragged by the heels of his boots into the elevator by his four friends … as if he wouldn’t have a bad enough hangover already without his head being bounces around the hotel lobby like a ball and chain. Did I say Bizarre?  

With memorable stops to Wuzhen and Suzhou we find ourselves back in the crown jewel of the orient. Shanghai is more like a neon flee market for knock of designer clothes and accessories but whatever Shanghai has something for everyone; thousands of restaurants, bars and night clubs … oh and did i mention the shopping!  Madness - Shopping here is not for the week of heart with prices that start 800% higher in an attempt to cheat the foreign devils out of their dollars!  Amazing how often you can get deals for less than the merchants pay for the products themselves …. why do they always look so happy to take a loss I wonder …… Oh the theatrics of shopping here are like Chinese Opera … Everything is exaggerated and bigger than life.  

As our Painting tour comes to an end half the group departed and the rest of us head up to Bejing to visit Tiannamen Square, the forbidden city and the great Wall - Of these only the great wall was really worth while and exceeded expectations. The other sites where simply impossible to enjoy ( as impressive as they were) due to the hundreds of thousands of Chinese tourists crowded into all these venues yelling and spitting - pushing and shoving … NO Thanks.  After the madness of Tiannamen Square and the Forbidden City we changed our schedule  so that we would be on the great wall in the afternoon avoiding the huge crowds.  Our plan worked perfectly enjoying the wall virtually undisterbed.  It snowed and was so peaceful … bliss to enjoy this amazing structure without the mass tourists, megaphones and matching tourist garb.  

From Bejing we left for Xian and a visit to the Terracotta warriors - also amazing … too bad about all the tourist spoiling the experience ( LOL ).  That night we saw Chinese Opera which was fantastic returning to Shanghia the next day.  

Anyway …. summary of the trip - I love China … too many people! Very difficult not to feel like a tourist - I guess that was the biggest difference to my first trip here in 1986; back then I was a traveler making my own discoveries, I long for that kind of China again - But I guess as they say “THATS PROGRESS”!

So that is my trip!
I did do a few nice paintings and had lots of laughs, good company, great food … and the photos you can judge for yourself. Please continue to next Post for photos Gallery